The Charlotte Observer's food writer loves on Limones, the Eagle Street eatery:

A server raving about his chef.

Such a simple thing, but when you're mulling a complex menu, there's nothing quite like it to inspire confidence and an adventurous spirit.

“I keep trying it at home,” ours said of chef-owner Hugo Ramirez's chorizo and sweet potato hash, “but I can't quite get it.”

This is Limones in Asheville, where Ramirez, a Mexico City native who worked in San Francisco, offers an inventive lineup that leans on both places (and some French technique, too).

“What Hugo does,” our server raved on, “is put things together.” He went on to recommend appetizers of housemade ceviche (fish or shellfish “cooked” with lime juice) and chicken tinga taquitos with chipotle caldillo. Tinga is a well-seasoned braise; here it's rolled into corn tortillas, fried and served in a spicy chile broth that's at once biting and smooth.